On an unseasonally sparkling day in January it is still possible to day dream your way out of the humdrum and dull London post Xmas and New Year.
I have just spent two days skiffing along the Thames. The Skiff is a canoe that is made out of oak and chestnut, designed by the Vikings and the model I was using is 120 years old. It had the patina and quality of another era and ones very contact with it was nothing less than a pleasure.
With all the rain recently, the Thames was high -high enough to submerge the banks and blur the boundaries between river and flood. This made my journey from Henley to Marlowe all the more picturesque and dreamy....albeit a very chilly dreamy. We cruised down river at a comfortable 5 or 6 knots riding the flood current. Here and there are whirlpools playing on the surface. The water at times angry and bubbling, the colour of milky coffee and then whole flooded meadows that had the appearence bays of mercury. Inches from the water you are on nodding terms with the wildfowl who either don't see you, probably can't see you or simply assume you are one of them. Quacking ducks, gurgling fast-running water, reflected sunlight, fresh air and church bells. The tiny but sturdey gas ring happily casseroling the partridge I took on board.
At night an attractive green canvass is streched over hoops along the length of the vessel (about 18ft) and a bed pack is spread along the beautifully varnished deck and this is where you sleep, gently bobbing on your mooring. That is if you are nuts. I stayed in the hotel du Vin in Henley and the second night at the Old Bell in Hurley. The first served superb Lamb shanks....slightly dreary looking but delicious in flavour, in the yellow bistro style brasserie. The second served the best fresh crab I have ever eaten on slices of apple and thin saucers of Alexander.... The red mullet was cooked as it should be to perfection. The rooms at the hotel Du Vin contrasted with the dining room. More president of the student union meets conference hotel atmosphere and decor. Harsh edges, metal painted black and vast beds that shred your shins. Staff were friendly though.
The Old Bell on the other hand is shaker meets Edwardian shooting lodge. Rooms spacious and simple. The bed and linens were the best I have ever slept in outside of Cairo. A stroll down to the Thames in the morning was a delight and the village is pure Miss Marples.
If you're mad enough and want an adventure to get you out of the rut, call Tom Balm of Thames Skiff Hire. Tom is fun and enthusiastic and mad enough to cope with anyone who expresses an interest in tradition camping holidays that might involve a boat. Let him tailor make a trip for you and you'll think differently about the Thames for ever.....it can be like Vietnam or Kerala, magical and beguiling and absolutely enchanting. He can even do all the rowing.
I have just spent two days skiffing along the Thames. The Skiff is a canoe that is made out of oak and chestnut, designed by the Vikings and the model I was using is 120 years old. It had the patina and quality of another era and ones very contact with it was nothing less than a pleasure.
With all the rain recently, the Thames was high -high enough to submerge the banks and blur the boundaries between river and flood. This made my journey from Henley to Marlowe all the more picturesque and dreamy....albeit a very chilly dreamy. We cruised down river at a comfortable 5 or 6 knots riding the flood current. Here and there are whirlpools playing on the surface. The water at times angry and bubbling, the colour of milky coffee and then whole flooded meadows that had the appearence bays of mercury. Inches from the water you are on nodding terms with the wildfowl who either don't see you, probably can't see you or simply assume you are one of them. Quacking ducks, gurgling fast-running water, reflected sunlight, fresh air and church bells. The tiny but sturdey gas ring happily casseroling the partridge I took on board.
At night an attractive green canvass is streched over hoops along the length of the vessel (about 18ft) and a bed pack is spread along the beautifully varnished deck and this is where you sleep, gently bobbing on your mooring. That is if you are nuts. I stayed in the hotel du Vin in Henley and the second night at the Old Bell in Hurley. The first served superb Lamb shanks....slightly dreary looking but delicious in flavour, in the yellow bistro style brasserie. The second served the best fresh crab I have ever eaten on slices of apple and thin saucers of Alexander.... The red mullet was cooked as it should be to perfection. The rooms at the hotel Du Vin contrasted with the dining room. More president of the student union meets conference hotel atmosphere and decor. Harsh edges, metal painted black and vast beds that shred your shins. Staff were friendly though.
The Old Bell on the other hand is shaker meets Edwardian shooting lodge. Rooms spacious and simple. The bed and linens were the best I have ever slept in outside of Cairo. A stroll down to the Thames in the morning was a delight and the village is pure Miss Marples.
If you're mad enough and want an adventure to get you out of the rut, call Tom Balm of Thames Skiff Hire. Tom is fun and enthusiastic and mad enough to cope with anyone who expresses an interest in tradition camping holidays that might involve a boat. Let him tailor make a trip for you and you'll think differently about the Thames for ever.....it can be like Vietnam or Kerala, magical and beguiling and absolutely enchanting. He can even do all the rowing.